Improvements to the Jib car system

 One nice 260 feature is the factory remote genoa car adjustment system. As non-overlapping headsails are very sensitive to car position, being able to adjust on the fly is very handy. From the factory, a 3:1 puller system allows you to tow the car forward. Typically, the pull backward is left to the force of sheet. But often this is not enough, so many boats incorporate a shock-cord assisted system. I added this to BlueJ.

The first trick is finding where to attach the cord to the older-style Amiot car. While there are openings on the car, all will snag the block and prevent it from rolling. A more clever solution was needed.


My solution was to drill a very small hole on the outboard/aft part of the car, and insert a small SS shackle there. It gives a very solid attach point, is clear of the block, and does not affect performance or strength in any way.

The next question was to how to run the shock cord. Best practice calls for a long a run as possible, so the cord has maximum effect. This usually means running from the top of the track down to the an aft turn, and up to the car, tensioned so the cord has effect over the entire range of the track. The trick is keep the cord clear of the car, with an additional goal of not mounting any new deck hardware.

After tying the cord to the forward track end fitting, my initial plan was to run the cord aft through the existing outboard fairlead, which also leads the downhaul, AND the forward puller line. The problem was that not all three would fit. Leaving the puller line out (shown above) allowed it to snag under the car.

The final solution is simple and elegant. Simply run the shock cord aft straight down the track and through the car, where it never interferes with the block or sheet. Around the jib sheetlock post, and back forward to the car. In the picture below, I removed the downhaul (foreguy) for clarity.




The system now works very well. Three pro-tips; 
  • Once you get a length of shock-cord that works best for you, measure it. Due to the cord being under constant tension, you will need to renew it often; once a year or more. 
  • You can help it last longer by easing the car all the way back when you leave the boat.
  • For even stronger return power, DOUBLE the shock cord by looping back through the car and all the back then up to the top of the track.

 

Comments

  1. Thank you! May I ask, what diameter line are you using for the control? We have trouble with the clam cleat retaining position. I believe our line is too big; downsized once!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Roy, its either 4 or 5mm, over here 3/16s. I thought it might be too small, but the hand load is fine, and the newer model ClamCleat grips it like death. Never slips.

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